Shop online or visit a home improvement store to purchase plates and bolts. While shopping, compare the hanger bolts to the surface plates to ensure they are compatible. The size will be listed on the packaging. Surface plates are a good choice for small tables without an apron, which is the series of wood panels some tables have on their underside to join the legs to the tabletop. Surface plates work best with thin legs less than 2 1⁄4 in (5. 7 cm) in diameter.
If you need a more precise estimate of where to put the plates, measure out from the table edges and mark where each one goes. There is no exact place to put them beside keeping them equidistant, so it depends on where you want them. Test the plates by holding the legs up to them. If the legs don’t look like they are positioned correctly, especially with angled plates, then adjust the plates before screwing them in place.
If you think the screws might be too long, measure their length and compare it to the table’s thickness. You may need to get shorter screws or try smaller surface plates. Screwing the loose plates on can be a little tricky. Clamp them in place or ask someone else to hold onto them so they don’t slide out of position.
Note that you don’t need to do this if you purchase legs with pre-installed hanger bolts. Skip to attaching the legs to the surface plates. For example, you might use bolts that are 5⁄16 in (0. 79 cm) in diameter. Try using the next lowest drill bit size available, which is usually 19⁄64 in (0. 75 cm). Pilot holes work best then they are slightly smaller than the bolts. To avoid drilling too far into the wood, wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit. Place it so its distance from the tip is the same length as the bolts. Then, drill down until the tape touches the hole.
To help ensure the bolts fit correctly, you can place a pair of metal nuts on them. Tighten the nuts with a wrench, then insert the bolt’s opposite end into the wood. Use a wrench on the nuts to turn the bolts, then remove them when you’re done.
Surface plates are great for a quick and easy leg installation. They aren’t complicated, so if the legs don’t seem right, the positioning is likely at fault. Move the legs or the surface plates as needed.
The equipment you need is available online or at most home improvement stores. T-nuts are useful for tables you plan on moving a lot. They work well on any type of wood table without an apron but are best for unfinished tables. If you plan on covering the table with another piece of wood or upholstery, T-nuts are a good choice. If you are unable to find T-nuts, you can also use threaded inserts. Threaded inserts are similar, circular fasteners that install the same way.
If you need more precision when placing the T-nuts, measure out from the edges and mark where each one needs to go.
For example, 5⁄16 in (0. 79 cm) is a common T-nut diameter. Create same-sized holes with a power drill. Be wary of the table’s thickness so you don’t drill all the way through it. Use shorter T-nuts if your table is too thin to support the ones you purchased.
The opposite end of each T-nut is a central circle with a smaller opening. This side goes into the wood. The base of each T-nut has small blades that will also pass into the wood as you hammer.
For accuracy, take time to measure out and mark the center point on each leg if you need to. To make the pilot holes the correct depth, wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit. Position it so its distance from the tip is the same as the length of the bolts. Drill down into the wood until the tape touches it. If you purchased table legs with pre-installed hanger bolts, skip this part. Instead, attach the legs to the T-nuts.
Keep the bolts center and straight in the legs. If they are misaligned, the legs will appear crooked when you attach them to the T-nuts. To make this part easier, put a pair of metal nots on the end of each hanger screw. Tighten them, slip the screw into the wood, and then use the nuts to tighten the screws. Finish by removing the nuts.
Keep twisting the legs until they are even with the table. The hanger bolts fit in the threaded holes in each T-nut, leading to a simple but effective installation that hides the hardware.
If you can’t work outdoors, select a well-ventilated spot like a workspace with a strong ventilation fan. Open up nearby doors and windows to direct more of the dust out. Keep other people and pets out of the area until you are done and have had a chance to clean up.
The exact size the boards need to be will vary depending on where you place the legs. Normally, they are easiest to fashion when the legs are placed right near the table corners, but they don’t have to be put there. If your table already has an apron attached, you will see wood panels attached to the underside. Skip this part and screw the legs to the apron rails or remove the rails to cut mortise and tenon joints. A mortise and tenon joint is a secure way to connect pieces of wood by making them fit together. A mortise is a slot, which is often cut into table legs. A tenon is a same-sized projection that fits into a mortise. The mortise and tenon technique is a classic way to create stable tables. It’s often used for big tables that require plenty of stability, such as picnic or dining room tables. It can also be done for metal.
Remember to fit the leg and apron rails together in order to get an accurate fit. The pieces have to line up so the tenons plug into the mortises once they are cut.
Using a router can be dangerous if you’re not careful. Keep a firm grip on it with both hands and keep your fingers up on the safety guards. Move it slowly and shut it off when you’re done. One way to make the cutting process easier is to drill holes at the ends of each mortise outline, then follow up with the router. Doing this can make the router glide a little more smoothly over the wood. Each leg will have a pair of mortises for the apron rails connecting it to adjacent legs. Make sure the mortise cuts look smooth. If you don’t have a router, you could also use a dowel jig to drill holes into each leg and rail. Then, fit wood dowels into the holes. The dowels will allow you to push the pieces together just like with a mortise and tenon design.
The tenons can be tough to cut to the correct size, so work slowly. Keep them a little bigger if needed, since you can always chip off the excess material later.
You may need to trim the pieces a little more to get them to fit. If you need to shave them down a little bit, try using a chisel to gradually reduce them.
Let the pieces dry completely before turning the table back over. Use some effective bar clamps or a similar tool to keep the rails and legs pushed together until the glue solidifies. Another option is to screw the rails and legs together. Getting the screws in the right place is tough, so it can easily make your table uneven. To do it, drill the screws diagonally down through the table legs and into the rails.
