The closer you are to “average” size (in both height and weight), the better luck you’ll have with off-the-rack suits. Even if you’re perfectly average, though, no off-the-rack suit is going to fit you just right. You can buy off-the-rack suits for even cheaper, perhaps $100-$200 USD, but the craftsmanship is likely to be poor, meaning the suit won’t last nearly as long.
MTM suits are machine-finished to fit your measurements, meaning you can get your suit with a fairly quick turnaround time—perhaps 2-4 weeks. MTM suits often start in the $500-$1000 USD range. Many major suit retailers now offer MTM options alongside their off-the-rack offerings.
A bespoke suit should last you for at least 20 years, and maybe many more. Since they’re precisely crafted to fit you, they’re also easier to adjust should your body proportions change over time. Bespoke suits can take months to craft, and the work comes at a cost. Expect to pay $3000-$5000, and possibly $10,000, for a custom-made suit. Keep in mind that they can easily last you a lifetime, though.
Salespeople at high-end suit stores tend to be quite knowledgeable, so ask them for guidance for picking out a good suit. They’ll of course be eager to sell you something, so decide beforehand whether you’re willing to be talked into buying a $1500 suit.
Cheaper suits may have glued linings instead of stitched. These won’t last nearly as long before separating or bubbling, and you’ll end up buying 2-3 suits in the period that a single good-quality suit will last you. Basically, buy the highest quality suit you can afford. For a first (off-the-rack) suit that you want to last for 10 years or more, aim for $500-$750 if possible. [6] X Research source
The single-breasted, 2-button, 3 in (7. 6 cm)-wide notched-lapel look is a nice balance between more and less formal. It works with a T-shirt and a bow tie. Navy blue is also a good choice, but not quite as universally functional as charcoal gray. Make this your second suit!
If you’ll be wearing the suit regularly, prioritize quality construction (for instance, stitching instead of glued seams on the interior), ease-of-movement, and basic colors (like charcoal gray or navy blue) that match just about anything. [9] X Research source When buying for more infrequent use, think about seasonality—that is, if you’ll be wearing the suit more often in warmer weather, opt for lighter fabrics like linen or cotton. For cooler weather, try heavier fabrics like tweed or cashmere. [10] X Research source
A highly-structured suit will essentially keep its shape once you take it off, while an unstructured one will lose its shape quite a bit. Lightly-structured suits provide a nice balance and are the most widely functional for both more formal and informal situations. They’ll generally keep their shape, but won’t look or feel rigid.
Jackets can be single-breasted or double-breasted (in which one side overlaps the other). Double-breasted suits typically denote greater formality. Single-breasted jackets usually have 1, 2, or 3 buttons on the front, and more buttons typically make the suit look more formal. Double-breasted suits nearly always have 2 buttons. Lapels can be notched (with triangular cutouts near the collarbone), peaked (coming to upward-facing points), or rounded (carrying continuously around the neck and chest). Peaked lapels are typically considered more formal than notched, while the formality of rounded lapels depends more on the overall suit.
Some suit retailers may have shoes, shirts, ties, and other accessories you can borrow while trying on suits, but you’re better off wearing your own items. If you need to buy these accessories as well, try them on and buy them along with your suit.
For instance, even if you prefer to unbutton the jacket when you sit down, you shouldn’t be required to in order to be able to sit down. Likewise, your trousers shouldn’t cling or stretch when you sit. Good tailoring is very helpful here. Even if you buy off-the-rack, having a tailor adjust the suit to fit your body allows it to have a slim look without being too tight in key areas—such as under the arms or at the seat of the trousers.
Sleeve and trouser lengths are easy to adjust, but adjusting the length of the suit jacket itself is more challenging. Generally speaking, when you’re standing straight the jacket should completely but just barely cover your rear end. [16] X Research source
